Watches & Jewelry

Cartier’s Crash Watch Thrives in Luxury, With Mixed History and Inspirations

The number of various works of art by Salvador Dali are not easy to count. The same can be said for the “Dali-inspired” works of art. But what about the surrealistic influence on jewelry? This is the story of the desirable Cartier Crash watch first issued in 1967. The watch is frequently and inappropriately referenced to Dali rather than an actual accident that gave it the name (or did it?). And for better or worse, there are many “inspirational” imitation watches which may cost only a few hundred dollars or less.

Watch collectors are a unique group within the broader sector of collectibles. This also includes collectibles investors in that mix. Fine watches and luxury watches are undoubtedly rather large investments whether these were purchased as an investment or as a status symbol. Most buyers who purchase fine watches in a retail setting know that watches are a store of value. They also know that buying retail and then selling for a short-term or intermediate-term profit isn’t likely in the cards. After all, how many people have heard of retail watch arbitrage?

The Cartier Crash watch has become one of the many exceptions about watches which have become chased down (or bid up) by collectors who may still be seeking a profit down the road. Investors may be in the game too, but one potential risk is the flood of “inspired” and “borrowed” designs that might water down the unique beauty of Cartier’s Crash watch.

Some Crash models have been available in auctions and some can be purchased as of the time this was being published. Those are going to likely cost over $60,000 and some may also be up over $100,000 for a single example.

The website LuxuryOfWatches.com also listed two Crash watch examples (one for $60,900.00 and one for $65,250.00) at the time of this publication. Cartier also had a limited reissue of the Crash from 2018, with prices that ranged from 27,000 euro to 65,000 euro at the time. Those were said to be available only at the Cartier boutique in Mayfair.

Image below from Heritage Auctions (HA.com).

Cartier Crash watch Heritage Auctions

The Cartier website itself also makes no mention of Salvador Dali. The site simply says:

Created in 1967, the Crash de Cartier captures the unmistakable verve of Swinging London in the Sixties. It crystallizes the encounter between the great creator of shaped watches and the joyful, popular transgressive current that challenged conformity.

Dali’s actual painting that is often referenced as the inspiration for the original watch is titled The Persistence of Memory and it is on display at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. Other works by Dali from the 1950s are also improperly but frequently cited references for the Crash.

Heritage Auctions recently sold a Cartier Crash watch from 1991, which was shown to be a limited edition number 326/400 that is made in 18 karat gold. Its price after the premium was $87,500 on December 8, 2020.

The watch-enthusiast site Chrono24.com also offers two examples of Cartier’s crash, with prices available upon request. And the most recent example sold on Sotheby’s sold for 1,197,000 in Hong Kong Dollars (the equivalent of $153,700 in current U.S. dollar conversion). That was more than twice the mid-point of its estimated range (400,000 to 600,000 HKD).

The Salvador Dali museum in St. Petersburg, Florida sells Dali-inspired timepieces as well, but you will have to visit their store on-site at the museum to find out what they have. Their store’s website says:

Merchandise from The Dalí Museum Store is available onsite only. We look forward to your visit to The Dalí Museum!

The Sotheby’s explanation of the Cartier Crash watch effectively throws out any notion that this watch was inspired by Dali. Their article titled “The Unusual History of the Cartier Crash” says:

Cartier’s unique designs concentrate on the basics of form, according to Sotheby’s Watches Specialist Charlie Foxhall, playing within simple shapes such as the square or the square and then bending, elongating, or compressing them in a way that is highly refined. The asymmetry of the Crash, for example, appears almost as if Cartier had taken an oval and completely crashed it.

Despite having a strong resemblance to distorted watch in Salvador Dali’s The Persistence of Memory, the design of the Cartier Crash has no connection to the surreal work. Legend has it that the idea for the Crash came when a client of Cartier brought in his damaged Baignoire from an automobile accident to the London maison in 1967.

The site Fashion Moves Forward has a history alluding to one of two automobile accidents damaging another watch severely. Hence, the Crash name, from a watch (a Cartier Baignoire Allongée) melting.

Lastly, another article from Rescapement in December, 2020 showed how Crash was also given rekindled interest after a tie to Kanye West. That article went on to show record prices for the Crash watch of $105,000 and then $120,000 after converting from Hong Kong dollars.

The Cartier Crash is undoubtedly a watch that is sought after by collectors and investors alike. Whether or not the cheaper “influenced” watches are even worth noting has yet to be seen.

One fair question is to ask what happens when similar looking watches of lower quality sell for $200 to $700 (see image below) each? Etsy has listed a watch named “Gold Silver Salvador Dali Inspired Brown Leather Wrap watch” after Dali’s Melting Time for $199.99. Etsy also has a Salvador Dali museum watch listed as vintage from the 1990s with a faux leather band for $736.59. Any Crash expert would know the watch is not a real Crash from 10 feet away, but they may still command the same double-take from those who covet fine watches.

Collectors Dashboard evaluates high-end collectibles as an alternative asset class. This is where the capital used to purchase high-end collectibles could have otherwise been used to buy stocks, bonds or real estate. Collectibles have also lured investors solely to make a profit on the exact same asset that may be sought after by a collector who has a deep passion to own the exact same asset. This easily includes fine and luxury watches.

True collectors and investors will only seek the real Crash watches. The lower-priced “influenced” or “themed” watches, particularly if they mention Salvador Dali, are going to be viewed as nothing more than trinkets. Just remember when it comes to investing (and collecting) — there is never such a thing as a guaranteed profit beyond the joy of ownership.